Mullumbimby
Lotus Cafe at Crystal Castle, Mullumbimby
Set between Australia’s counterculture capital of Nimbin and impossibly cool Byron Bay, Mullumbimby is small in population but big in personality. All palm trees and tropical architecture, Mullum (as it’s affectionately known) is the gateway to the World Heritage-listed rainforest that characterises the far North Coast of NSW.
You’ll find plenty of hippy spirit on the streets of Mullumbimby and it preserves the alternative lifestyle that the Northern Rivers is famous for. Street art, quirky shops, legendary markets and innovative restaurants abound. Meet the locals at the Mullumbimby Community Gardens, a lush green space on the edge of town where you can buy veggies from the market garden, join a yoga class or sit down for a community lunch. The Paddock Project has another garden selling organic produce as well as running workshops, classes and markets.
Mural in Mullumbimby - Credit: Sarah Reid
For a moment of magic, connect with the world’s largest crystals amid the lush Shambhala Gardens at Crystal Castle. Across five hectares of rainforest lie enormous, sparkling geodes, not to mention a dreamy labyrinth, buddha statues and the ‘Dragon Egg’: a 120-million-year-old amethyst cave where you can sit to soak up positive vibes.
Crystal Castle and the Shambhala Gardens, Mullumbimby
There’s also a real passion for wellness amongst the people of Mullumbimby. Join them for a soak at The Banya, a gorgeous bathhouse inspired by the European tradition of social bathing. There are multiple pools, sauna and steam room, as well as a restaurant. Kiva Spa is another relaxing bathhouse, looking like a lush Balinese retreat. It runs regular women’s only session and special evening events for solstice. Book a massage afterwards for complete relaxation.
The Banya, Mullumbimby
You don’t have to travel far to immerse yourself in nature when Mullumbimby is your base – in fact, you can go bushwalking within the town itself. The Brunswick Valley Heritage Park is a botanical haven for hundreds of species of rainforest plants, some rare or endangered, and all of which nurture a menagerie of animals, big and small. Take the reserve’s trail to the Brunswick River for a picnic beside the water.
Slightly further afield, more wilderness awaits in Nightcap National Park, an immense expanse of protected forest forming part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area. Explore hiking trails along crystal-clear creeks in the shadow of the (extinct) Wollumbin shield volcano, then cool off at Protesters Falls or Minyon Falls – the latter offers a swimming hole at its base.
Protesters Falls, Nightcap National Park - Credit: Lismore City Council
Opened in 2025, Gidjuum Gilgani is a 42-kilometre, four-day walk that winds through the Tweed Byron Hinterland. The name means 'Old People's Track' in local Bundjalung language and the route follows ancient songlines and trading routes through lush rainforest. It starts near the magical Unicorn Falls in Mount Jerusalem National Park and finishes near Minyon Falls. You can do it solo or join a tour with Vision Walks to trek without your backpack and sleep in glamping tents.
Gidjuum Gulganyi Walk - Credit: D Parsons | DCCEEW
Want to explore the region on two wheels? The Northern Rivers Rail Trail is a new shared recreation and nature trail that will connect the Tweed Valley with Byron, Lismore and Casino. The first completed 24 kilometres of the track runs between Murwillumbah to Crabbes Creek – explore stunning scenery and charming villages, while taking a break at the eight rest stops along the way. Beyond Byron E-Bikes offers self-guided e-bike tours of the trail to make the journey easier.
Beyond Byron E-Bikes, Byron Bay
Mullum’s counterculture quirks flow through into the food scene. You’ll feel healthier as soon as you step into organic cafes like Santos, Lulu’s, Heaps Good and Paseyo. Bimby does the best coffee in town. Grab fresh bread, pies, pastries and pretty-as-a-picture cakes at Baker and Daughters. For a fascinating fusion of organic food, native ingredients and Indigenous culture, join a cooking class or private dinner with Karkalla on Country.
Karkalla on Country, Myocum
If you’d like to indulge a little, build a charcuterie board and pair it with a cocktail or glass of wine at Bacco. You can even bring your dog. Mullumbimby Continental is a European-style bistro and wine bar specialising in natural drops. Otilies is the place for a laid-back family pizza night. Spice It Up Thai and Izakaya Yu will satisfy your Asian cravings. For afters, the Mullumbimby Chococolate Shop is packed with sweet treats that will take you back to your childhood.
Follow the lead of the locals and grab a beer at The Middle Pub – bring your instrument for Sunday jams. More cool drinks can be found at Wandana Brewing, a small craft brewery on the outskirts of town with a view of Mount Chincogan. There are food trucks, DJ sets and regular trivia nights too.
Wandana Brewing Co, Byron Hinterland - Credit: Byron Photography
The Mullum Farmers Market is held every Friday morning and attracts foodies from all over the Northern Rivers. There are more than 75 stalls selling fresh produce and artisan goods, plus delicious breakfast options and live music. On the third Saturday of the month, the Mullumbimby Community Market has a huge range of handmade, upcycled, and eco-conscious wares, from jewellery and art to clothing, crystals and more.
Mullum Farmers Market, Mullumbimby - Credit: Mullum Farmers Market
In July, the Mullum Roots Festival takes over multiple venues across town to showcase local and international bands. The lineup ranges from big names to young musos just starting out. The Kaleido Festival is held every two years and brings the community together through art and creativity. Test your fitness at the annual Chinny Charge, a run or walk up Mount Chincogan held in September. It’s the only day of the year you can actually climb the mountain, so it’s an event not to be missed.
Mullum Roots Festival, Mullumbimby - Credit: Mullum Roots Festival
On the outskirts of Mullum, luxurious Blackbird is a design-driven retreat featuring sleek pavilions surrounding an infinity pool. Embrace the hippy vibe with a stay at Butterfly Lane, an off-grid, eco-friendly tiny house. More low-key accommodation includes centrally located pub rooms and motels, as well as a sprawling camping ground.
Blackbird Luxury Accommodation, Mullumbimby Creek - Credit: Blackbird Luxury Accommodation
Mullumbimby is a scenic eight-hour drive north from Sydney, or less than two hours south of Brisbane. Make a road trip of it and follow the Legendary Pacific Coast route, giving yourself four days to meander along the Pacific Highway exploring sea caves, meeting local wildlife, hiking lush rainforest and paddling through aquamarine waters. If you prefer someone else to navigate, catch the train to the nearby town of Casino and connect via bus, which takes around 14 hours. Alternatively, fly into Ballina Byron Gateway Airport, 35 minutes away, or Lismore Regional Airport, 50 minutes away.
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